Eat Drink KL

One of our favourite meals in Amsterdam came from this street stall that features fish of various fins for convenient snacks.

The main attraction here: "broodje harring," the raw herring sandwich.

Looks slimy and unappetising but tastes amazing. Super-fresh fish with pickles and onions.

Smoked herring sandwich. Not as moist and juicy as the raw one, naturally.

Shrimp, stuffed to savoury succulence. Sensational.

Eel sandwich. Lusciously creamy; not a Filet-O-Fish for sure.

Warm, tender chunks of unidentifiable fish, encased in light, crisp batter that isn't greasy in the slightest.

Vishandel Visser,

Amsterdam.

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As a separate initiative, the latest edition of Eat Drink KL: 100 Favorites for January-March 2014 is now online, featuring 100 pretty nice eateries, including more than 20 new entries for this quarter. This eBook of restaurant recommendations is available for free, convenient reading on computers, tablets & smartphones at this link: http://eatdrinkkl.publ.com/Eat-Drink-KL-100-Favorites-Jan-March-2014 (This link expires March 31, 2014; see blog entries after that date for new link).

Young & Ji's is one of the more recent additions to Solaris Dutamas; it's a rather odd duck of a hookah bar that also features a menu that spans broccoli soup, Nicoise salad & Eggs Benedict, each for RM10 or less.

Food was unavailable on our visit here several weeks ago, so we settled for sips of a new home-grown coffee brand that could become a more familiar name in the months to come.

Gems is a Malaysian manufacturer that roasts, blends & sells coffee; its bottled beverages are now available at Young & Ji's as well as a rising number of other cafes, including Burger Junkyard, Foodsbury, Foodtique, Las Vacas, Nemo, Paper + Toast, The Hungry Hog & more.

Gems' flavours include the signature latte, mocha & green tea latte, all conveniently packaged.

We're not sure whether Gems is still tweaking its formula, but these beverages are creamier than expected. Serve them with lots of ice; otherwise, they might end up being perilously cloying.

Gems Coffee @ Young & Ji's Cafe
A1-G1-06, Solaris Dutamas, Kuala Lumpur
Street level, on same row as Ante Kitchen, facing main road

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Miam Miam mania is spreading swiftly: The cafe that was born in Penang scarcely six months ago has launched its first branch in the Klang Valley this past week, expanding the brand that recently also unveiled outposts in Singapore & close to Melbourne. Plans are allegedly afoot for Miam Miam to invade Canada, China & Indonesia too this year.

Miam Miam's menu here is pretty similar to what Penang's residents can enjoy, except for one key point that will prompt some patrons to whine: No pork is served at this 1 Utama outlet, which means the signature spaghetti (RM26.80 before taxes) lacks the bacon that's found at Gurney Paragon. Still, it's well-prepared pasta, with firm strands of spaghetti mingling nicely with an onsen egg, turkey ham, baby spinach & tomatoes tossed in a butter-&-shoyu broth.

The food is essentially European with extensive Japanese influences; the oven-baked macaroni is worthwhile too (RM24), cooked with four cheeses & crunchy panko breadcrumbs.

Miam Miam's thickly sliced French toast has become near-legendary in Penang; the cafe's likely best-seller is extremely hearty, partnered with plenty of maple syrup & house-made whipped cream.

Folks are fans of Miam Miam's commendably constructed souffle (RM16.80) as well; flavours include green tea & vanilla.

Miam Miam serves "souffle pancakes" too, fluffier than regular pancakes. Have one topped with vanilla soft-serve ice cream, Granny Smith & red apples, cinnamon, granola & raisins (RM20).

Hand-dripped, light-bodied coffee (RM8.80), blended with 100 percent Arabica beans.

All in all, Miam Miam seems to have nailed the formula of becoming an F&B success story. This is a good-looking restaurant with crowd-pleasing offerings; service is perfectly efficient though possibly impersonal, though that might be the hallmark of a rapidly expanding chain.

Miam Miam

146, Ground Floor, 1 Utama, Bandar Utama, Petaling Jaya.

Old Wing location, replacing Petite Millie

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It's loud, lurid & kitschy, but Puchong's new Grand Shanghai Food Theme Park in the Setiawalk complex feels irresistible in its own inimitable fashion.

This is a warren of restaurants in a setting that's supposed to evoke the streets of 1930s Shanghai, complete with rickshaws & vintage car replicas.

The food here feels like a mishmash of Chinese favourites, with numerous shops serving everything from dim sum to bak kut teh, roast duck rice to claypot pork belly noodles.

The most popular is probably the dim sum tea house. But it's debatable whether this siew mai is worth the RM7.50 price tag (before taxes), all things considered.

Several items are well-prepared enough to please; we liked the deep-fried prawn rolls with seaweed & shredded bean curd skin (RM8.40), served hot & juicy ...

... though the char siew pastries with spring onions (RM6) tasted like they had been sitting on a counter somewhere for at least 10 minutes too long.

Crab meat xiao loong bao (RM12). Sounded more memorable than it turned out to be.

Deep-fried carrot pastry (RM7.20), too bland to recommend.

Steamed glutinous rice with chestnuts wrapped in lotus leaves (RM7); also could be better.

Still, it's not all hopeless here; the steamed custard buns with salted egg yolk (RM6.60) were fine ...

... while the prawn & pork dumplings with wolfberries & Chinese spinach were entirely edible ...

... & the fried prawn dumplings were enjoyably executed.

Deep-fried avocado rolls with kataifi (RM9), as near-perfect as any we've ever had.

Another worthwhile one: Starch noodles with Chinese parsley (RM8). Quite addictive.

Mini egg tarts with pandan paste (RM6) brings this meal to a mediocre close. So ultimately, there are both hits & misses here.

Grand Shanghai Food Theme Park
Level 4, Setia Walk, Puchong
Park in the basement at Zone E and take the elevator up

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The BIG Group's two newest watering holes are dramatically different from each other, except for one key point: They're both exceptionally hidden from public view, with no signboards outside to betray their existence. Here's a peek into Barlai at Pudu ...

... & Mr Brooks at Bangsar Shopping Centre.

First up, Barlai, nestled within the peaceful oasis of a refurbished building that's reputedly more than 80 years old _ the Sekeping Sin Chew Kee guest house, behind VCR cafe.

Sip French Press coffee (RM6) in a stark space that's highlighted by street signs on walls with exposed bricks ...

... or check out the cocktails; each costs a wallet-pleasing RM20 or less. The bar opens bright & early, so this is the spot for morning Mojitos, Margaritas & Martinis, with twists of kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass & lychee.

Chilean Merlot clocks in at RM16 by the glass. Food will be served later; basic fare like nasi lemak & hot dogs. Barlai is currently is one of the friendliest of The BIG Group's establishments, with personable service that makes this place worth recommending.

Next up, Mr Brooks, which can be either an adventure or a chore to locate, depending on one's tolerance.

Basically, the bar is kinda behind Ben's on BSC's third floor; look first for the Sunbeam Alpine car ...

... then push through the tool panel to reveal a speakeasy-style bar evocative of Tate at The Intermark.

This a sumptuously decorated place, nothing like the minimalism of Barlai. That's reflected in the stiff prices too: Cocktails here each range between RM50++ & RM95++.

We could only afford two of the cheaper options, but both tasted fantastic, with beautifully balanced flavours. Nan's Carrot Cake lived up to its description of being thick & lightly spiced, with a cheeky nip from Grandma's secret Drambuie stash (RM60++).

Fruit N Nut, a cosmo that's creamy with a distinctive pistachio after-taste (RM50++).

By the way, there are rumours that Mr Brooks will turn into a members-only bar, with the possibility that patrons might need to spend RM3,000 on a single receipt for a six-month membership. Best to call to check before coming here.

Mr Brooks
Level 3, Bangsar Shopping Centre, Kuala Lumpur
Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am. Tel: 03-2282-0241

Barlai
3, Jalan Sin Chew Kee, Off Jalan Pudu, Kuala Lumpur
Daily, 10am-10pm for now

Mr Brooks
Level 3, Bangsar Shopping Centre, Kuala Lumpur
Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am. Tel: 03-2282-0241

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Bankers Room, a restaurant & lounge, takes over the space that once was il Primo on Jalan Kia Peng; it has ambition, so it could become a force to be reckoned with if its performance ever matches its potential.

We like how the kitchen dares to be different; based on this (punctuation-challenged) outlet's name, it might be hoping to lure deep-pocketed patrons who won't mind paying RM50 before taxes for this pizza topped with foie gras, peaches, lemon dressing & creamy capsicum puree.

Another pizza, blanketed with unagi, egg, bonito flakes, nori, green pepper, spicy cod roe mayo, lime zest & shallot rings (RM30). It's a fun experiment, certainly & enjoyably tasty, but there's a nagging feeling that with so much going on here, all the nuances of flavour are overwhelmed.

Can't go wrong though with spaghetti with sauteed bacon (pork, another commendably bold choice), tempura soft shell crab, seaweed strips, soft-boiled egg, broccoli, zucchini, cherry tomatoes, shimeji mushrooms & togarashi spices in butter sauce (RM26). Another Japanese-influenced recipe, this is one case where the complexity fares better.

Duck confit, fairly well-executed, paired with more duck (smoked), a rather dry polenta cake & cabbage in orange sauce (RM36). Not bad; the combo sounds perfect on paper, so that needs to be translated better on the plate. But easier said than done, sure.

Spring chicken with sweet potato 'risotto,' veggies & mushroom sauce (RM32). Elegant comfort food, a little simpler than everything else here. Won't go down as one of 2014's most memorable dishes, but it'll still go down well.

Rib-eye served with bone marrow, roasted potatoes, veggies & Merlot butter sauce (RM48). The service team here works hard & is attentive, but many of them seem to lack the confidence & experience to shine. Meanwhile, the kitchen could be understaffed, as our orders often took a long time to emerge, sometimes with missing ingredients.

This tiramisu has an unbeatable alcoholic kick, served with a shot of port wine on the side. For only RM14, well worth the price.

The essential cocktails & wines are available (there's a cool walk-in cellar), plus all the other liquor that we could want. All in all, with some fine-tuning, this could someday turn into a place to recommend. We're not sure it'll happen, but we sure hope it does.

Bankers Room

28 Jalan Kia Peng, Kuala Lumpur. Same building as Conlay Club

Daily for lunch & dinner. Tel: 03-2142-3699

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The Rabbit Hole recently hopped into the site that formerly housed two excellent restaurants, Le Bouchon& El Rincon. It's off to a promising start so far, aiming to bring back the thrill to Changkat Bukit Bintang.

We really like The Rabbit Hole's leafy, alfresco "Bamboo Forest" dining section; it's distinctive & adds an air of seclusion that's not always attainable on this bustling street. Potentially pretty romantic too, on the right kind of night.

The Rabbit Hole's street level also holds a distinguished-looking gentleman's club, as well as a graffiti bar & "Green Room" club. Plans are afoot for a rooftop pool bar to be launched eventually too.

The menu here is extensive, with plenty of fun choices. The salted egg yolk buffalo wings (RM23 before taxes) could turn into a deep-fried addiction, genuinely flavoursome & well-prepared, served with a spicy chilli aioli. Very respectable East-West recipe.

We also enjoyed the Iberico Spanish black pig 'presa' shoulder steak (RM58), medium done with a hint of truffle oil, partnered with mashed potatoes, veggies, bacon & wild mushrooms. A wonderfully succulent, wholly satisfying alternative to beef steaks.

An interesting bet for dessert: the playfully concocted Faberge Egg plate, basically grapes coated in cheese & toasted almonds, paired with minted fruit tartlets (RM31). It's inventive, spinning its own take on a fruit-&-cheese platter.

Have wine will dine; customers can also enjoy respectable renditions of Tommy's Margarita (tequila, agave nectar, lime juice) & The Last Word (gin, green chartreuse, maraschino liquor, fresh lime juice).

The Rabbit Hole

Changkat Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur

Daily, 4pm-3am

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A bit off the beaten track, but Calabrese might be worth a visit for fans of European fare who live or work in Kepong.

The selection is both extensive & capably executed; can't complain about the seafood risotto (RM26.90), packed with perhaps more mussels, clams & squid than rice. There's plenty of pasta too on Calabrese's menu, from chorizo farfalle to pork bolognese rigatoni (both RM18.90).

The pizza tastes rather mass-market, with a crust that could be crispier, but Calabrese can be commended for not skimping on ingredients; this one blanketed with wild mushrooms & truffle oil is fragrantly earthy (RM18.90).

We like how the kitchen here is more ambitious than anticipated; mains include salmon wrapped in a thin slice of ham, served with Sicilian-inspired aubergine caponata (RM26.90).

Fair prices, fairly friendly service; what more could we want?

Did someone say wine? Calabrese offers that too, by both the glass & the bottle. This is a simple suburban restaurant, one of those places that won't exactly take its neighbourhood by storm. But for a casual lunch or dinner, customers could do far worse.

Calabrese Cafe & Bistro
1A, Jalan Desa 2/7, Desa Aman Puri, Kepong
Daily, 10am-10pm

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Tastefully elegant in its simplicity, comfortably welcoming in this sun-kissed setting, Golden Fields, run by the team behind Melbourne hotspot Cumulus Inc, feels like an ideal venue for an enjoyably leisurely lunch, a short tram ride from the city centre.

As Golden Fields describes it, the menu provides "a personal interpretation of chef Andrew McConnell's favourite Asian eating experiences," gleaned from his years working in Shanghai & Hong Kong. Here's a modern menu that's no stranger to the allure of kimchi, wasabi, chrysanthemum leaves, Sichuan pepper & sesame paste.

Duckfish sashimi with salmon roe, scud chili, ginger & lime ($15), a delicate dish whose purity is punctuated more harmoniously than expected by resonant notes of tangy savouriness & gentle spiciness.

New England Lobster roll with hot buttered bun, cold poached crayfish, watercress & kewpie ($15). Light but lovably luscious.

Golden Fields' drinks draw deeply from a Japanese well, with relative rarities like Kyoto red rice sake ($22 for 90 millilitres).

Aged sake: 1978 Omiji Kijoshu From Shiga ($29 for 60 millilitres).

Golden Fields
2/157 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda, Melbourne
Noon through midnight, except Mondays

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In 2014's most miraculous F&B coincidence so far, two invitingly distinctive cafes opened this week on the same street of Taman Bukit Desa: The Soda Factory, launched by the folks behind The Tapping Tapir sodas& The Potong artisan popsicles ...

... & Encore, the inceptive overseas spin-off from a Sydney-based patisserie of the same name.

First up, The Soda Factory, where the offerings seem both thoughtfully & playfully conceptualised. Nice work, folks.

Check out the delicious sourdough pizzas; the best bet is copiously crowned with spinach, an egg, olives, garlic, tomato sauce & parmesan cheese for only RM15. It's a terrific representation of how a pizza should taste, with toppings that complement each other beautifully & a crisply smoky, fresh-tasting base that strikes that not-too-thick, not-too-thin balance.

The Soda Factory's sourdough waffles might prove polarising though; we like how they're discernibly dense in the vein of the Liege variation, but some patrons might prefer fluffier waffles. Enjoy with Nutella sauce, strawberries & vanilla ice cream (RM15); even though both the pizzas & waffles could be calorie bombs, they somehow feel light enough to be low-guilt pleasures.

Floats are fun here; customers can mix & match sparkling soda flavours with a variety of ice cream. Our combo: Lemonade & lengkuas with a scoop of pistachio ice cream (RM9). No worries, not too sugary in the least.

(Former) President Bartlet's beloved beverage _ egg cream (RM9) _ is also available here: Freshly mixed milk, soda water & maple syrup work together to form the ideal beat-the-heat refreshment.

And with that, we segue into Encore, only a thirty-second stroll away. Beware though, both The Soda Factory & Encore will feature precious few vacant tables on a sultry Saturday afternoon.

Encore taps the skills of Australian-based pastry chef Barry Symington to blast out sweet treats like almond meringue tortes loaded with hazelnut chocolate whipped cream, vanilla-flavoured eclairs & rum-tinged mud cakes.

Many of the pastries cost RM14 each, on the higher end of expectations, though it's probable that pricey ingredients went into producing them. Savoury specialities like beef pies & mushroom quiches should be available eventually.

And yep, Encore serves coffee (it comes from a land Down Under). Expect to hear a happy amount about The Soda Factory & Encore in the weeks to come; both will inexorably attract curious cats & eager beavers throughout this inaugural quarter of 2014.

The Soda Factory

15, Jalan Bukit Desa 5, Taman Desa, Kuala Lumpur.

Same row as Sanuki Udon. Seems to currently open only on weekends, 11am-10pm, but will surely change that later. Call 016-682-2221 to confirm.

Encore Patisserie Cafe

1, Jalan Bukit Desa 5, Taman Desa, Kuala Lumpur

Open 9am-9pm, except Tuesdays

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It's been an action-packed weekend for folks in TTDI, where not one but TWO terrific new cafes roared open to brisk business: Frisky Goat at Burhanuddin Helmi ...

... & Thursdvys, which opened on a Saturday, ironically, at Datuk Sulaiman 1. Note that Thursdvys is pronounced 'Thursdays' _ the spelling quirk is simply meant to help this outlet stand out on Instagram & Twitter.

Frisky Goat & Thursdvys have very little in common, except that they're both filled with buoyantly friendly people & both places radiate plenty of positive vibes. Frisky Goat's probably our better bet for now, since it's serving hot food, while Thursdvy's kitchen will only open late next month.

Let's not save the best for last: Frisky Goat's baked eggs (RM18.50) seem like the most satisfying ever in Taman Tun ...

... perfectly prepared, beautifully balanced in both flavour & texture, mixed with slices of spiced sausage, cherry tomatoes & beef bacon that's surprisingly tastier than the norm, partnered with Frisky Goat's own-baked crusty toast. Absolutely adore this.

Poached eggs are served with a difference too, atop a fresh-tasting Belgian waffle (waffles are becoming perceptibly trendy in the Klang Valley) & partnered with seared salmon, sauteed mushrooms & an eye-catching, tomato-tinged hollandaise sauce. RM21.

The French toast (RM20) employs a less ordinary recipe as well, expertly executed & convincingly complemented with apple chutney, spiced roasted walnuts, honey, vanilla ice cream & chantilly cream.

Cakes here are also distinctive: The strawberry-raspberry Red Opera, topped with crimson-coloured almonds, will turn heads.

Love Frisky Goat's espresso creme brulee, soft & sumptuous. Actually, our only possible complaint about this place is that it's not big enough; seating can feel cramped & vacant tables will be scarce on weekend afternoons.

Frisky Goat's owners graciously acknowledge that their prowess in coffee-making might not be this neighbourhood's most impressive, but they still do good work with their Colombian beans. The outlet will extend its hours through dinnertime soon; expect heartier bistro-style fare including beef bourguignon. Frisky Goat is also a bakery, so head here for pastries galore.

Also totally worth a stop: Thursdvys, one of KL's nicest-designed caffeine bars. Hats off to the people who worked on constructing this place; there's a lot to admire here, we're not sure where to start.

Blends from Singapore's Common Man Coffee Roasters surface again in KL; the coffee's nice & nuanced here.

Beat the heat with a peach cooler mocktail or some iced latte.

Hot food should be served starting March 22, but customers can trifle with various desserts at Thursdvys for now. All in all, both Frisky Goat & Thursdvys are set to soar in the popularity stakes. Take note, writers of "Twelve Brunch Places in KL You MUST Try Before The Zombie Apocalypse Hits" lists.

Frisky Goat

72, Jalan Burhanuddin Helmi, Taman Tun Dr Ismail. Beside Public Bank.

Open Tuesday-Sunday starting 8am. Through 5pm for now, 11pm eventually.

Thursdvys

22, Lorong Datuk Sulaiman 1, Taman Tun Dr Ismail. Same row as Presto supermarket.

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What's old is very much new again: Lao Jiu Lou, or Old Restaurant, is the latest bulwark of F&B emperor Seiji Fujimoto's dominion over Taman Desa, a ramen specialist that's poised to become Fujimoto's fourth suburban smash after Sanuki Udon, Taishu Yakiniku BBQ& Maruhi Sakaba Yakitori.

Lao Jiu Lou feels like a cool hybrid of an old-fashioned Japanese izakaya & a roadside Chinese hole-in-the-wall; it's atmospheric without overdoing it, evoking elements of Fujimoto's earlier eateries to stir up something with triumphantly singular charm. Bravo.

Fujimoto has repeatedly proven that he's more than savvy enough to know what works for Taman Desa; Lao Jiu Lou is well-thought-out in every respect. Its food falls unfailingly in the 'cheerfully cheap' classification, with RM9 tonkatsu ramen reigning on top of a one-page menu, costing a third of what patrons pay in malls.

Sure, this isn't as sumptuous as the best ramen out there, but it's satisfactory; the broth might not plumb rich, brute-force depths of pleasure, but it's sweet & tasty enough. Half a seasoned egg & a substantial slice of pork cha-siu round up the fundamentals for a freshly made, fuss-free lunch that's filling & fulfilling.

Pork gyoza clocks in at RM5 (a lamb variation will be available soon), pillowy-plump & juicy, with thick but soft skin, delicious when gobbled up piping-hot with ginger & vinegar.

Chinese components offered here include spiced roast pork (RM12), siu yok that's nothing if not absolutely addictive.

Moreish morsels of flavoursome succulence, with a golden-brown topside that's notable for its firmer-than-expected crunch. Served with melt-in-the-mouth potatoes & crisp carrots.

More meatiness: Cha-shu with cabbage (RM10). Best with rice or noodles.

Lao Jiu Lou's menu is less than descriptive: Some customers might dismiss what's simply typed out as "Steam Chicken," but they'll have missed a memorable mix of chicken leg with flat rice noodles & veggies on a platter of salty soup (RM10).

Similarly, the cryptically named 'Special Rice' is something less ordinary, a balanced meal with minced meat & waxed sausage. Not quite lap mei fan, but comfort food always makes for delightful discoveries nonetheless.

Alas, no sake is available, but Japanese Asahi & Chinese Tsingtao beers are.

Lao Jiu Lou is on the same street as Sanuki Udon & the two other neighbourhood newbies, The Soda Factory & Encore Patisserie. Look for the lanterns, since the permanent signboard isn't up so far. It opens all day long, 11:30am-9:30pm, but is closed on Mondays, like Fujimoto's other outlets.

Lao Jiu Lou 老酒楼 Old Restaurant

Jalan Bukit Desa 5, Taman Bukit Desa, Kuala Lumpur

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Decked out with gleaming chandeliers, Elizabeth could be the closest thing to a fine-dining restaurant in Puchong, whipping up European specialities at prices that are blessedly not as punishing as feared.

Inventiveness is the kitchen's watchword; Elizabeth's menu ditches mushroom soup for a sweeter starter, a chilled broth that blends pureed strawberries & oranges into something that succeeds as a refreshing recipe for these heat-troubled times. RM15.

Coffee-scented risotto with mussels (RM38 nett). The execution for some of these could be fine-tuned though; this rice is mushier than necessary, while the fragrance of coffee seems illusory. Still, the idea itself is nice, so there's certainly hope.

No lack of meat on offer: Everything from blackcurrant duck (RM33), a fun way to feast on fowl ...

... to chicken confit (RM23) with buttered peas, olives & an herbal medley of sage, rosemary & thyme (no parsley? heh) ...

... to lamb rack with fried bread (RM48), a main course that illustrates Elizabeth's strengths & weaknesses all on one plate. This restaurant deserves admiration for its ambition & its passion to produce interesting dishes, so we hope it'll take time to reflect on how to make its ingredients really shine & leave a memorable impression.

Elizabeth is located incongruously inside Setiawalk's Grand Shanghai Food Theme Park; it's an odd neighbour for the dim sum & bak kut teh restaurants that populate this fourth-floor section of the complex beneath the TGV multiplex.

Elizabeth Fine Dine

Level 4, Setia Walk, Puchong

Park in the basement at Zone E and take the elevator up

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Bangkok's 'boat noodles' have sailed into Damansara Perdana, stirring up a sweet-&-spicy storm for fans of Thai fare.

Boat Noodle _ which isn't officially open but has been hosting test sessions _ plays it somewhat safe by sticking to the beef & chicken versions of its namesake, shunning porcine blood & crackling for resolutely bovine & fowl broths. But even without pork, these little bowls still pack plenty of nuance, with undercurrents of a savoury-sour tang.

The broth relies on beef bones or chicken stock, depending on which one customers order. The flavours so far seem pleasant instead of punchy, but what we tasted here might not exactly be what this outlet serves when it launches, likely next month; the kitchen is still tinkering with the recipes, so Boat Noodle should prove unsinkable by March.

Customers are advised to order three bowls per person for a fairly filling meal. Each bowl here will likely clock in at RM1.90, more than what they cost near Victory Monument, but calculative customers should appreciate being able to save on airfare to the Land of Smiles.

Chilled pandan-coconut desserts that could pass off for Nyonya puddings, served in small bowls as well, constitute the ideal wrap-up to a meal here. Absolutely addictive.

Boat Noodle is a friendly place that harbours no pretensions of striving to satisfy patrons with anything but freshly assembled soul food; this place could float close to the top of eateries to check out once it opens.

Our one request: Add offal to the noodles here. We love our liver, we'll be thankful for tendons & tripe.

Boat Noodle

G3A, Empire Damansara, Jalan PJU 8/8, Damansara Perdana

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Checking out a couple of unconventional venues for food reviews: Petaling Jaya's Lotus Five Star State Cineplex ...

... & Pudu's Tung Shin Hospital.

First up, PJ New Town's Lotus State Cinema, where Magic 1 opened this year, serving hawker specialities in a setting that's well-lit, clean-looking & completely comfortable.

Penang favourites form the focus; the selection ranges from a passable char kuey teow (below RM6, with several somewhat shrivelled cockles & a few fair-sized prawns) to assam laksa ...

... & Hokkien Char with sambal belacan (relatively uncommon in the Klang Valley) to chicken lor bak, ais kacang & cendol.

The big surprise: Magic 1 offers wine (!!!), including an unusual Australian red laced with green tea (a little less alcohol, a lot more antioxidants), pleasant-tasting & refreshing for hot afternoons.

Next up, Private Corner, a basic cafe that gets pretty busy near Tung Shin Hospital's main lobby.

Private Corner's advantage: its low prices. A bowl of pumpkin soup is RM3; not the most memorable, but (fittingly enough for a hospital eatery), it tastes wholesome.

The latte costs RM6, but it can be skipped. Not much flavour in this cup.

Magic 1

Ground Floor, Lotus State Cineplex, Petaling Jaya

Daily, 8am-midnight

Private Corner

Tung Shin Hospital, 102, Jalan Pudu, Kuala Lumpur

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A friendly, no-fuss venue for casual, leisurely lunches, Jac's On The 8th took over recently from Ara Damansara's Good Friends Cafe (which has moved to SS15 Subang). It's easy to spend a happy afternoon here, kicking back with your buddies & enjoying tasty, wholesome fare.

The menu ranges from ideal-for-lunch comfort food like this egg-&-eggplant sandwich with sesame mayo sauce (RM12.90) ...

... to perfect-for-breakfast treats such as buckwheat-&-cashew-nut granola with cold milk (RM6.90).

Jac's also provides for takeaway orders, so we were pleased to bring home this free-range chicken, tenderly stewed with pumpkin & carrots, served with rice & steamed broccoli & cauliflowers (RM14.90). Honest fare prepared with heaps of heart.

Pastas are a pleasure here too, particularly the seafood ones: Our spaghetti brimmed with more Chilean blue mussels than we could count, cooked with olives & tomatoes in a lightly briny broth (RM24.90). Ask for an optional splash of rum to add a zing to this recipe. There's also a prawn pasta with tamarind sauce & ginger flower that sounds tempting.

Fans of cranberries can have a field day here, thanks to stacks of cranberry-walnut pancakes showered with honey (RM8.90) ...

... to cranberry-filled English scones paired with passion fruit jam & butter (RM3.50 per scone), cranberry carrot cakes (RM10 per slice) & rum-&-raisin cheesecakes (raisins are relatives of cranberries, right?), all personally baked by owner Jaclyn Ting, the latest Malaysian to pursue her dream of running a cafe.

Jac's regards coffee seriously, so order a cup here, pour-over, siphon, French press or ice drip ...

... with beans from Australia's Grand Central Premium Coffee Roasters.

Jac's On The 8th

G-G-8, Jalan PJU 1A/20A, Dataran Ara Damansara, Petaling Jaya

Tues-Fri, 8am-6pm, Sat-Sun, 8am-430pm. Tel: 03-7734-3638

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There's consistent cause for celebration whenever a Spanish restaurant opens in KL, especially one that ventures beyond the staples of meatballs, olives & button mushrooms to brave the fearsome realm of pig's head recipes.

Nexo launched recently in Bangsar South's new Nexus complex; it operates all day long throughout the week, so customers can stroll in at 4pm on a Wednesday & still be able to order everything from gazpacho to leche frita.

Try the tapas: Nexo's aforementioned pig's head emerges in fine, fried form, essentially fleshy croquettes coupled with pickles & garlic aioli (RM15 before taxes). An acquired taste, but all offal is, after all.

Squid cooked with its own ink, caramelised onions & rice crackers (RM17). Or try calling it by its more evocative Spanish name, "chipirones en su tinta."

Sardines prepared with sherry & garlic (RM15). The rest of the tapas selection comprises temptations ranging from octopus with potatoes & paprika to mussel-&-prawn croquettes with spicy tomato sauce.

Moving on to main courses: Nexo's bacalao (RM55) is worthwhile, well-executed salted cod loin, moist & meaty with bacon, polenta & a buttery blend of Roncal cheese & lemon.

For folks strictly NOT on a diet: Suckling pig confit (RM50), as fatty as imaginable, with pork jus & a carb-laden potato gratin. The grilled asparagus can only sit by helplessly.

And of course, there's still more to the menu, everything from lamb rack with harissa paste, yogurt & couscous to sea bass with potato-leek terrine & pisto sauce.

What's a Spanish eatery without cold cuts? Nexo has a solid assortment of acorn-fed jamon iberico de bellota & sausages.

And of course, paella. Nexo's rendition is respectable, RM54 for a seafood-heavy serving that two or even three can share.

Sangria costs RM26 by the glass & RM90 by the jug, offering slight savings for folks who order the latter & plan to drink a lot.

Spanish wine, RM18 per glass & RM95 by the bottle.

Nexo has both an air-conditioned interior & a shaded alfresco area that's breezy enough for Bangsar South's after-work crowd.

Nexo Restaurant & Bar

G-13, Ground Floor, Nexus, Bangsar South, Jalan Kerinchi, Kuala Lumpur

Daily, noon through late. Tel: 03-2242-2226

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Don't stop believin' that riveting new caffeine bars can still storm the Klang Valley: Run by a Malaysian who cultivated a passion for beans while she was working in Panama, Roast FactorGlee has the X-Factor to help it stand out amid the current cafe boom.

Tucked inside The Club compound at Persiaran Bukit Utama, Roast FactorGlee fits the definition of an oasis; head here in the afternoon & be welcomed by the buttery scent of hot scones fresh out of the oven, baked by cafe owner Shyue Chin's brother ..

... & brioches paired with Roast FactorGlee's own-made jams (strawberry-tomato & banana-rhubarb are the current highlights) ...

... plus chocolate chip cookies studded with almonds, muffins made with virgin coconut oil & gula melaka, as well as familiar-looking slices of cakes (some supplied by Frost & Flourish: peanut-butter-&-banana & raspberry cheese).

But what's most exciting is what awaits once Roast FactorGlee's kitchen opens later this month to serve hot food: Expect breakfasts with a twist initially, followed eventually by savoury sensations like Danish-style roast pork shoulder (inspired by Shyue Chin's Denmark-born husband).

The cafe's pride: coffee produced with beans roasted on-site; single-origin Colombian Inza is simultaneously light & luscious.

Espressos, lattes & mochas (the current house blend is two-thirds Indonesian, one-third Colombian).

Beat the heat with a cold brew or Fatbaby ice cream. It's a cliche these days to say that a cafe is run with passion, since so many are, but it holds true nonetheless for Roast FactorGlee. This is a brand to watch.

Roast Factor Glee @ Bukit Utama

G06, Village Shops, The Club, Persiaran Bukit Utama, Bandar Utama, Petaling Jaya

Currently open starting 1pm daily through nighttime, will begin breakfast service soon. Tel: 03-7732-2893

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This vividly colourful cafe is poised to become a pretty big hit, celebrating a well-curated selection of crowd-pleasing local fare in a fun & friendly suburban setting.

Rice-lovers will likely be heartened by Chuup's nicely executed nasi lemak (RM14.90), tastily complemented with pork rendang, tender-crisp kangkung & nearly all the other necessities (except for a hard-boiled egg, strangely) ...

... as well as Hainanese chicken rice with super-smooth fowl & kitchen-made chili dip (RM12.90). No surprises here, but familiarity can breed righteous comfort. Chuup shows respect for why these recipes are so beloved.

For folks who fear carbs, pork's a pleasure; can't fault "Grandma's pork chuup" (RM18.90) _ shallow fried, marinated loins with spinach & potato carrot ragout. Pure protein & fine fibre at fair prices.

Also a success: Popiah stuffed with prawns & dried shrimp in Chuup's own-made popiah skin (RM4.90). The food feels fresh; nothing seems like it was left on the shelves for too long. That's a testament to the hard work & thoughtfulness of Chuup's team, which claims to be newbies to the F&B business.

Chuup serves Puro fairtrade coffee; for a tropical-fruit twist, have it as a coconut latte (RM9).

Local durian coffee (RM5), with a discernible flavour that's mellow, not overbearing.

Chuup

40, Jalan SS22/25, Damansara Jaya, Petaling Jaya

Open Wed-Mon, 1130am-10pm. Tel: 03-7733-6673

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Here's a ramen round-up of Japanese noodle joints that have recently stormed the suburbs, starting with Kanbe Ramen at Damansara Perdana's Empire Damansara complex.

Kanbe Ramen serves springy house-made noodles with toppings like meaty roast pork fillet or garlic-&-chilli-laced minced pork. Its soup is made with boiled chicken bones & vegetables, a bid to produce milder, cleaner flavours compared to pork bone broth.

The result: Palatable ramen, though perhaps not as memorably tasty as it might have been. The absence of marinated eggs here should also be reconsidered. Kanbe's ramen ranges in price between RM17 & RM21 before taxes. Rating? Probably a B.

Next up, Komichi Ramen, a no-frills outlet at Desa Sri Hartamas.

Cha-shu ramen, bountiful with thick slices of pork that could nonetheless be more tender (RM22.90).

Rating for Komichi? Maybe a B-minus.

Moving on to Raku Raku Ramen at Sri Petaling.

Raku Raku is theoretically value for money; a very hearty serving with not only cha-shu, a full egg & the works but a chunk of buta kakuni braised pork belly costs RM22.90. Still, the meat here is afflicted with what comes dangerously close to a stench.