The BIG Group, the 800-pound gorilla of KL's restaurant scene, is taking a walk on the wild side, reconstructing its Intermark establishments for a new showcase of ambitions that can't be caged.
BEAST, a cavern for carnivores, opened this month, devouring the territory once occupied by Estate. Next, the very intriguing GUEST, set to be a revolving-door restaurant for invited chefs, might replace EST by mid-July; the fortunate survivor of this carnage for now is Tate.
While waiting for the prey to be prepared, wolf down BEAST's warmly fresh beer bread, baked with Kilkenny Irish Cream Ale.
Untamed imagination bares its fangs in BEAST's rendition of steak tartare (RM38++), mixed with kimchi (!!!), pear & cucumber for a ferociously spicy Korean flavor.
Savage stallions wouldn't keep us away from this guiltiest of pleasures, roasted bone marrow (RM28++) for spreading on toasted brioche with caramelized onions.
Poached egg on polenta with truffle oil & shaved parmesan (RM28++). No mastication required.
The chicken comes after the egg, beer-brined & whole-roasted (RM68++), an improvement on Estate's beer butt chicken, a bittersweet symphony of succulence.
Steaks here shine, but to avoid becoming as impoverished as church mice, we chose the cheapest cut, the minimum 200 grams of Black Angus grass-fed (RM70++), still sterling, served rare with a trio of mustards & sauces of natural beef jus, truffle bearnaise & bone marrow gravy.
Foie fans will have a field day at BEAST: Love the liver that's executed breakfast-style (RM68++), luscious with French toast, fig jam & rice crispies.
Foie gras creme brulee (RM38++), magnificent like mousse. And speaking of magnificence, the sparkling service at BEAST merits full-throated roars of bravo.
Don't duck BEAST's marquee burger (RM88++), beefy-red boldness topped with fab foie.
Drunk as a skunk? Blame it on the Santa Julia Organic Malbec.
Let's let more cats out of the bag: The BIG Group is also on the prowl in its other lion's den, Bangsar Shopping Center (BSC), where new BIG bar B.S. & food hall Streets should launch within months. Can't hardly wait.
BEAST Bar & Grill,
Ground Floor, The Intermark, Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03-2163-5732
Currently open for dinners, except Sundays.
Ground Floor, The Intermark, Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03-2163-5732
Currently open for dinners, except Sundays.