Way Modern Chinois @ Clearwater, Damansara Heights

Sensual elegance isn't something that a Chinese restaurant is expected to exude, but Way Modern Chinois sets out to be a breaker of multiple rules, painting on a broad culinary canvas.

Opening this week in Damansara Heights, the sister restaurant of Ploy is swathed in shadows, cultivating a cozy-cushy intimacy in a strikingly small space free of traditional banquet tables; it's perhaps the ideal place in KL for a Peking Duck-craving couple to enjoy a romantic evening.

Start with dim sum, served both for lunch & dinner; the Pac-Man platter (RM22 before taxes) is a cute one, comprising steamed prawn dumplings marinated with Szechuan spices & ponzu, to be consumed with a cracker resting on mashed avocado.

 No-carb, no-meat dim sum? No problem. Lettuce-wrapped, carrot-filled 'treasure pouches' (RM17) taste like a healthy treat, enlivened with pumpkin sauce.

 Cheong fun stuffed with shredded duck (RM17), as expertly executed as everything we had here.

 Gyoza-like dumplings, pan-fried & packed with mutton & chives (RM12 for five pieces).

Way is a no-pork eatery, but that won't stop its chicken-based xiaolongbao (RM12 for four) from supplying satisfaction.

This one's wonderful: Wickedly creamy-smooth congee (RM68), constructed with chicken stock, slow-cooked for 12 hours, crowned with abalone & aromatically enriched with plenty of truffle oil.

Tropically tempting: Pina Colada Crab (RM33), chilled crustacean of the flower variety, its meaty flesh coated in soft ice flavored with pineapple & coconut. 

Way's derring-do extends to its cocktail menu; try this "Journey To The West" of Ron Zacapa rum, dried longan, dried dates, ginger beer, lime juice & lime peel. The downside: It costs RM50. 

"Long March," with jasmine tea-infused vodka, elderflower syrup, egg white & lemon juice.

 Note: The way into Way is currently concealed; press the button outside to open this entrance.

Fun fact: Way is the Chinese name of the owners' son. It can mean 'unique' in Mandarin.