Every visit to The Point is a voyage through a series of surprises, exploring the imaginative prowess of a restaurant that's been consistently creative since 2014 - we've experienced four meals here so far over the past two years, with the latest one proving a successful showcase of the artistry & adroitness of current head chef Kua Jinhao & his team.
There's plenty to tackle here, so come in eager to delve into multiple courses: Perk up the palate with the Truffled Angel starter (RM35), which melds delicate, silky textures with punchy flavours, weaving chilled angel hair pasta with the sweet succulence of raw amaebi & the brininess of avruga caviar, balanced by the tang of yuzu sauce & a lemony umami of soy-glazed jelly bits.
Can't fail with foie: The Point does right by this favourite refreshed with distinctive complements - a buttery brioche, blackberry reduction & pistachio crumbs. A flawlessly pan-seared rendition that dishes out sheer, sumptuously textured pleasure. RM48.
Various pastas are available; for creamy comfort, Finding Rosso (RM34) features spaghetti tossed in a sun-dried tomato sauce blended with olive oil & herbs, articulating a crimson reinterpretation of pesto, its dynamics accentuated by fleshy anchovies & crunchy pine nuts.
We rarely order cod fish these days, since there's a tired predictability to how it's prepared at most venues. But again, The Point performs a satisfying job in recasting a classic, putting the unerringly moist, flaky star of Atlantic black cod centre-stage in a swirl of balsamico, mushroom fritters & asparagus, crowned with smoked caviar dressing, wittily named Cod's Gift (RM65).
The journey takes a heightened turn with the meat courses: Lamb is a smooth, tender treat, herb-crusted & miso-infused, carried out to a medium-rare voluptuousness to sink your teeth into, a primal indulgence completed with a well-thought-out ensemble of truffled mash, pumpkin tempura, caramelised onions & plum jus. RM68.
We're saving what could be the best - pork - for last: The Suckling Pleasure is irresistible - suckling pig marinated with white wine, salt & pepper (RM52), cooked sous-vide in an oven for 12 hours, finished in high heat for a few minutes, yielding luscious mouthfuls of crisp skin, melting fat & achingly opulent flesh. Not for the faint-hearted; 25 portions are offered per day.
The one that haunts our dreams is the Reconstructed Bak Kut Teh (RM65), an elaborately playful take on Malaysian Chinese dry-style BKT - slabs of 12-hour-slow-cooked, herb-infused Spanish Iberico pork jowl & Vietnamese pork belly that sent us straight to carnivore heaven, accompanied by mushroom fritters (a substitute for yau char kway), quinoa (to replace rice), bak choy, garlic & a final sweep of a soy glaze tinged with cili padi. A recipe that merits consideration for hall-of-fame status.
Desserts & drinks display deliberate flourishes too: Reinvented sweet staples include Valrhona chocolate ice cream with thick mascarpone cheese, nut biscuits & salted caramel sauce (RM28) & liqueur-loving creme brulee laced with Baileys & kahlua (RM28), while recommended cocktails include the complex, refreshingly nuanced Spice Up (RM35; vodka, lychee liquor, orange juice, mango juice, lime juice, tobasco) & Peace Maker (RM30; vodka, mint leaves, sugar syrup, lime juice, egg white). Many thanks to The Point for having us back here.
The Point
122, First & Second Floor, Jalan Kasah, Bukit Damansara, Damansara Heights, Kuala Lumpur.
Open Mon-Tues, 630pm-1130pm; Wed-Sun, 1130am-2pm, 630pm-1130pm. Tel: 03-2011-8008
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